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| On the way to Sao Jose |
Set back into the jungle or
mata some 5 kilometers from the main highway, no roads, only a trail, is the "Sitio de Sao Jose" or
Zé Ferreira's agroforestry eco farm. Lured there by a National Geographic article and further research into
Zé's work- hosting some 27 institutions and having given two Ted Talks, I thought, "man, I need to meet this person. " With some digging, I was able to coordinate a visit, a bit tricky with no signal in the jungle, but the fates aligned and
tudo deu certo. This mini jungle jaunt proved to be one of my more memorable moments in all my time in Brazil....
Trekking forth into the
mata I eased into a rhythm- one forgotten but familiar. Staring at the path before me, step after step onto the deep, rich understory. Nothing stays the same here. Decaying matter transforms into new growth. Busy insects skeeter to and fro. I better keep moving or I too will be consumed by the forest. Keep moving on this path, as well as in all matters of life.
The fates did align in the end and I arrived serendipidously in time for the midday meal, prepared from the eco farm's stock.
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| Meal on Ze's farm: taioba leaf greens, beans, manioc flour, palmito, brown rice |
Seriously, best food I've eaten in Brazil and one of the best meals I've ever had- save for ma's cookin'!
The theme of pathways continues post lunch while chatting with my host. Who is this unique individual making a life out here, producing his own food, who has built his own home, calls himself a farmer, and genuinely respects and coexists with his environ? We delve right into the heart of the matter. To paraphrase some of our conversation: We are not shaping our own paths. We are shaped by the needs of society. We are not open to other paths, other ways of knowing. His words struck a cord within me. I feel trapped by the very instruments that are meant to improve and facilitate my daily ongoings. I dance this dance because I am obligated, but not because it gives me a great sense of fulfillment. No. The source of our fulfillment comes from creation, contact with nature and real human connection.
We continued... we spoke of altering our perceptions profoundly, by making a shift in our way of living. We spoke of the challenges inherent in doing so. Challenges such as the naysayers. The stigma of being a 'farmer' as a lowly position. The sheer back breaking work of constructing your own home. The unimaginable set backs. But coming from
Zé, a most humble figure, his words carry the weight of his practice. People can talk but they need to put the practice behind it.
Zé does this in such a way that he has attracted a following among the network of environmentalists, agriculturalists, and just anyone who really cares about the Earth and others. I'm sure I'm not the first to conclude that he was like a kind of Brazilian Buddha, enlightened out there in the woods.
After such a lunch and a deep chat, I was scrambling to jot down my notes from our conversation. I passed out shortly after into a deep, satisfying nap.
The following day, I became better acquainted with the site. I toured the various planting zones and learned more about the system of Agroforestry, planting with the forest, not over exhausting the fields, and producing your own sustenance. I was entranced by all the microcosms of life and the overall harmony of this place. Observing a row of non edible bean plants alongside a row of ginger, the bean plants are solely planted to give nourishment back to the soil, thereby allowing the ginger plants to prosper. This symbiotic way in which the plants give back is a theme I can click with.
A tour in photos:
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| Zé and his land, 7 years dormant this section |
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| Ginger plants and bean plants |
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| Jack fruit and its admirers- look close |
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| Behold! The pantry |
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| Chopping down palmito (hearts of palm) |
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| Back in the kitchen with the palmito |
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| Cozy kitchen moments |
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| Zé prepares the taoiba leaf |
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Volunteers and Zé, heartfelt good-byes
Best outdoor shower ever!!!
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